Fast fashion, like many industries, comes with a trade-off. But the allure of trendy clothing at rock-bottom prices is hard to resist for some despite environmental and ethical costs – often out of sight and out of mind.
So what happens when risk hits closer to home? South Korean authorities reported in May that a few products sold by online retail giant Shein were allegedly found to contain high levels of phthalates, a group of hormone-disrupting chemicals linked to obesity, some cancers and fertility problems. The company reportedly filed for a London initial public offering in June amid roadblocks to its United States listing.
The risk becomes personal. While concerns about factory conditions and polluted waterways may seem more distant, toxic chemicals that can directly impact our health and our children’s health may appear to be a more immediate threat for many.
Could this be the tipping point that gets more consumers to reject fast fashion’s current model?
When everyday products become a threat
Unfortunately, it may take more than a health scare to suddenly turn people off unsustainable fashion, but the hope is it will start a shift in consumer priorities – like in the personal care market.
In the era of fast beauty, there are similar health risks related to chemical exposure. In 2022, women filed a wave of lawsuits in the US against popular brands of hair straightening products containing formaldehyde, a chemical linked to cancer and respiratory problems. More health-conscious consumers actively sought out formaldehyde-free alternatives.
As people become increasingly aware of harmful chemicals in everyday products, more may be willing to prioritise health over cheaper goods.
Even major brands like Sephora have capitalised on this trend with their “Clean at Sephora” initiative of product lines without “ingredients you might like to avoid”. The global organic personal care market is projected to more than double by 2032, from a base of about US$24 billion in 2022.
This offers a potential model for fast fashion. If consumers are willing to pay for chemical-free personal care products, could they also embrace ethically sourced and sustainable clothing?
The true cost of affordability
Truth be told, true transformation requires addressing the root cause: Affordability.
A small-scale study of teenagers found that while they were aware of the negative aspects of fast fashion, price was still the most important factor influencing purchasing decisions. Even after viewing marketing materials about “greener” options offered by a retailer, most participants were more likely to choose the cheaper, fast fashion option over the sustainable alternative.
Another study, with women aged 21 to 30 as the majority of respondents, found price to be the most important purchasing consideration, with 80 per cent prioritising it.
Affordability becomes tricky when consumers have become more price-conscious. For many, fast fashion feels like a necessity, not a frivolous choice. Limited budgets may not allow for ethical alternatives.
The challenge is not confined to Shein, nor just online shopping sites. Many mainstream retailers source from similar factories in the same global manufacturing hubs. The issue may be systemic to the low-cost, high-volume production model itself.
Many products require assembly in multiple factories or involve increasingly complex global supply chains. And at the speed at which fast fashion labels churn out new collections – Shein can offer as many as 1.3 million different styles in a year, according to one University of Delaware fashion studies professor – it can be hard to ensure every product meets high ethical standards.
Organisations and certifications, like B Corp, are making strides in providing more transparency and improving safety and sustainability standards. However, we are unlikely to achieve complete assurance.
An unforeseeable future
There must be a system where affordability does not come at the expense of personal health or the planet.
Consumers need to be provided with clear information about products and business practices so that they are empowered to make informed choices – and ultimately vote with their wallets for good value, not just low prices.
The industry must take the lead here by promoting existing certifications and having labels with clear information on materials or practices. There must be a shift that values quality and safety – as much as, if not over quantity – even investing in research and development on new technologies or materials that are safe and ethical.
Stricter regulations could also be enacted on product safety, harmful materials used or providing incentives for sustainable fashion products. Singapore has been actively pushing for stricter regulations on product safety, particularly in the area of consumer goods, including apparel and textiles.
The Consumer Protection (Consumer Goods Safety Requirements) Regulations are a significant part of this effort. These regulations aim to ensure that general consumer goods, such as clothing and textile products, meet relevant international safety standards.
Ultimately, the Shein incident is a wake-up call. But will a health risk make consumers change their behaviour?
Some may reconsider purchasing habits, while others may stick to their current behaviour. The demand for affordable and fashionable products is still deeply entrenched.
It will take a sustained effort to educate consumers, improve manufacturing practices, and perhaps most importantly, create economic conditions where ethical choices are also affordable. Until then, we may still be bound by the toxic threads of unsustainable fashion.
The article was first published in CNA.